Frequently Asked Questions

Twenty feet by twenty feet comes to 400 square feet, which is in two-car garage territory. HomeGuide lists two-car garage epoxy at $1,600 to $5,800 and installed epoxy at $4 to $10 per square foot. Old paint, cracks, moisture and a chip or polyaspartic finish all move the price, so we measure and test first and give you a written quote.

Larger floors are usually priced per square foot, and HomeGuide puts installed epoxy nationally between $4 and $10 a foot. Commercial systems with 100% solids resin start around $12 per square foot according to HomeAdvisor. On big floors, grinding hours, repairs and layer count matter more than the resin itself, which is why we quote each one on site.

Standard epoxy can yellow or chalk in direct sun, it takes days to fully cure, and a smooth gloss finish gets slippery when wet. It also fails if it is laid over damp or poorly prepared concrete. We deal with those by testing for moisture, grinding the slab, adding texture or flake, and using a polyaspartic topcoat where sunlight reaches the floor.

Yes. Summer dew points here average in the upper 60s, so we check slab temperature against the dew point before each coat, often start early in the day, and mix smaller batches when it is hot. If conditions are too close, we reschedule rather than risk a cloudy or weak bond.

If sunlight hits the floor through an open door, a polyaspartic topcoat is the safer choice because it holds up to UV far better than epoxy. A frequent Atlanta garage recipe is thick epoxy underneath with polyaspartic on top to take the sun and the scuffing. We explain the options at the estimate.

That comes down to the product and the weather. HomeGuide says polyaspartic typically handles heavy vehicles within 24 to 48 hours, whereas epoxy may need close to a week before it is fully hard. On install day we hand you separate times for walking, furniture and parking.

Yes. Basements get a moisture test first, since below-grade slabs on sloped Atlanta lots can push water vapor up through the concrete. High readings mean we lay down a vapor-tolerant primer first, and if water is getting in, the leak has to be solved before any coating.

Most kits rely on acid etching or just cleaning, which leaves a weak surface. Hot tires then pull the coating up. Water-based kits are also thin; HomeGuide puts their life at 3 to 5 years versus 10 to 20 for a solid system. We grind the old kit off and start from bare concrete.

A smooth gloss finish can be. Chips or a gritty additive mixed into the final layer fix that for garages where wet tires and shoes come in often.

Usually yes. Hairline and non-moving cracks are filled and ground before coating. A crack that keeps widening or a slab that is lifting needs a different repair first, and we point it out if we find one.

Hot tire pickup happens mostly with thin coatings on poorly prepared floors. A ground slab, a proper primer and a polyaspartic topcoat resist it well.

Yes, the floor has to be fully clear for grinding and coating. Plan for the garage to be out of use until we tell you it is ready for vehicles.

They are the same thing. Vinyl flakes, or chips, are broadcast into a wet resin base and sealed with a clear topcoat. Different installers use different names.

Not usually. A dust mop and an occasional damp mop handle most dirt. More texture means a little more effort, so we can make the topcoat smoother if easy cleaning matters most to you.

The chips are fairly stable, but an epoxy topcoat can yellow in UV. We use a polyaspartic topcoat wherever daylight reaches the floor.

Yes. A damaged spot can be ground out, re-broadcast with the same blend and re-coated. Matching is easier with busy multi-color blends.

For sun, abrasion and cure speed, yes. Epoxy builds thicker and is easier to apply. Putting polyaspartic over an epoxy first layer is a common way to get the strengths of each.

HomeGuide says heavy vehicle traffic is usually fine after 24 to 48 hours. We set the exact time for your floor from the product used and the temperature and humidity on install day.

Bob Vila's guide says it is not a DIY product. It sets fast and thin, so mistakes are hard to fix before it hardens.

HomeGuide puts the life of a polyaspartic floor at 10 to 20 years or more. Slab preparation and moisture conditions underneath affect that more than anything.

No metallic floor looks exactly like another. Samples show the colors and the general style. The pattern forms as the epoxy is poured and worked on your floor.

Yes, once a moisture test checks out. Below-grade slabs often call for a primer designed for damp concrete. Water seeping through the floor or walls must be stopped before we coat.

It can, like any glossy floor. A clear topcoat, felt pads under furniture and frequent dust mopping keep it in good shape. A satin finish hides fine scratches better.

A high-gloss finish can get slick in socks or when wet. Mixing a fine texture into the topcoat gives better grip.

We can, but chip systems usually wear better under tires and tools. If you want metallic in a garage, a tougher UV-stable topcoat is a must.

Usually we can phase the work in sections or schedule nights and weekends. Faster-curing topcoats shorten the time each area is out of service.

It depends on loads and traffic. Forklift and pallet jack traffic calls for a high-build 100% solids system, while a light storage room can use less. We recommend a build after the walkthrough.

We coat food prep and kitchen areas with textured, chemical-resistant systems that handle hot water, grease and daily cleaning. We plan around health inspection and opening schedules.

Yes. Walkways, forklift lanes, parking stalls and hazard zones can be coated into the floor in contrasting colors.

We grind or blast it off to bare concrete. Coating over old adhesive or paint is a common reason commercial floors fail.

Damp from vapor, often yes, with a moisture-tolerant primer. Wet from water coming in, no. That needs drainage or waterproofing first. A moisture test tells us which you have.

Usually moisture vapor pushing up through the slab, or paint applied over unground concrete. We grind the paint off, test the slab and choose a primer to suit the readings.

Yes. A chip or metallic system makes a durable, easy-to-clean floor for gyms, playrooms and family rooms. Add a rug for warmth where you sit.

Some systems have an odor during application and cure. We talk about ventilation at the estimate, especially when the basement is open to the rest of the house.